Circle D Converter Installation
Over the last several months, we’ve been upgrading parts and pieces on our Project Silver Bullet machine with an eye on killer dragstrip performance without killing the streetability. The focus of our story in this go-round is the brand-new triple-disc torque converter from the team at Circle D Specialties in Houston, Texas – a beautiful piece of automotive jewelry if we’ve ever seen one.
I have a 2c circle d. I love it for the track but i Hate the way it drives on the street in town. On the highway its fine because its locked up. Now that its getting warmer out and i dont like to go to the track in the texas heat i will probably put my stock converter back in.
- Circle D / Circle D Flat Bed; Circle D Flat Bed. Email to a Friend. Be the first to review this product. Starting at $1499 and Up (depending on size and options) Installs Available Monday- Friday Call or Email to Schedule (install takes 5-8 hours depending on unit).Some options in picture are additional cost.
- I am thinking of going with a Yank 3200 converter for my 2017 Silverado. I have had two buddies who had the Yank truck converters and one had a Circle D. The one who went with the Circle D had to get it replaced. Just curious if anyone is running the Yank converter for the 6L80E. Mod wise my truc.
Our 258mm billet-cover triple-disc lockup torque converter from Circle D Specialties showed up with everything needed to put it in – except the tools, lift, transmission fluid, and mechanic.
To provide a bit of background on our hot rod, in the first few installments of this project we’ve added a Phase 2 supercharger system from ROUSH Performance, opened up the exhaust with a set of full-length headers and X-pipe from Kooks Custom Headers to go with Roush’s axle-back exhaust, and finished off the underside with a complete Maximum Motorsports Road and Track Grip Box. The second round of modifications included new high-flow fuel injectors from Deatschworks, then a rearend upgrade with an Eaton Truetrac differential complete with Motive 3.73 gears to maximize our performance both on the track and on the street. In the last installment, we swapped out some of our suspension parts for better launches at the dragstrip, installing a set of Strange Engineering‘s S197 single-adjustable front and double-adjustable rear shocks to go with a set of Cobra Jet coil springs from American Muscle, which improved our short times despite a belt-slippage problem, and set us up for this round of the build.
Left - Circle D is very proud of the fact that their converter pieces are machined in-house to their proprietary specifications. These specs have been scienced out through years of development and engineering on multi-disc lockup torque converters. Right - The front cover is responsible for handling the immense pressure and rotational forces being applied in both axial and radial planes - that's why it starts out as a 60-pound block of billet.
The How And Why
We’ve discussed torque converters before in previous articles, but a quick rundown is in order.
Principles Of Torque Converter Operation
The torque converter is a fluid coupling, designed to take the torque produced by the engine and turn it into usable power that can be pushed to the vehicle’s drive wheels through the transmission, driveshaft, and rearend assembly. There are four main parts to a torque converter – the turbine, pump, stator, and front cover. The pump is welded to the front cover, and transmission fluid circulates internally to turn all of these pieces to produce an efficient fluid coupling. Check out the video above (it’s a little long but a great watch) to gain a greater understanding of what’s happening inside the converter.
The lockup clutch piston (in hands) is forged and CNC-machined like the front cover, while the clutches are a high-carbon material for the ultimate in clamping power.
Our new Circle D converter offers an advantage not found in older-style torque converters, and that’s the lockup clutch inside. By using a piston and multiple friction surfaces within the assembly in conjunction with solenoid-fired fluid pressure, the converter locks up – hence the name. The solenoid is controlled by the tune and this can be manipulated to suit individual preferences. Our 6R80 transmission, as spec’d by Ford in our 2013 Mustang, had a lockup converter from the factory, but the dual-disc OE lockup clutch gives up holding power compared to our new triple-disc piece.
“For optimum performance, the factory converter is never going to be the right piece. It’s all set up for fuel economy and drivability, not performance. From an NA setup to centrifugal-supercharged setup to a turbocharged setup, those will all really benefit from a performance torque converter. The positive-displacement supercharger like you have in this project will benefit also – even though it doesn’t have an extreme gain because the torque curve is so low, there is still plenty of room for improvement. You’re trying to match the torque curve better to the engine for the gain in performance.” says Circle D’s Chris Sehorn.
Focused On Performance
There are literally dozens of torque converter manufacturers in the marketplace, but very few have tackled the late-model lockup clutch converter design quite like Circle D has. “Since we make all of our own parts, we have figured out things that have worked, and we’re not limited to waiting on another converter competitor to make parts. We were first to market with the 6R80 torque converters by about a year, and that’s because we make our own parts,” says Sehorn.
The company makes two different diameter torque converters for the 6R80 market at this time – a 245mm version and a 258mm version. Naturally aspirated, centrifugally supercharged, and lower boost pressure (8-10 psi) turbocharged cars will benefit most from the smaller diameter unit, while higher-horsepower and positive-displacement supercharged cars will benefit most from the larger 258mm unit. The smaller the diameter of the centrifugal pump (torque converter), the higher the stall speed of the converter.
Changes And Upgrades
With that thought in mind, we consulted with Chris on what the best piece would be for our application, given the 500-plus horsepower we are trying to get to the ground most efficiently. One of the hallmarks of a Circle D Specialties torque converter is its durability, and our current power level is the breaking point for a factory torque converter, as the clutch material inside the converter will only hold so much power before that material says “Sayonara”.
“We see the factory converter start to give up around 500 horsepower – the lockup clutch starts slipping. We manufacture the billet lockup pistons, the lockup clutch and the billet front cover for these converters. They are designed to handle around 1,200 horsepower. The big-power stuff, you get the benefit of a better-matched stall to the combination, but also a much, much stronger torque converter,” says Sehorn.
The multi-disc torque converter, as built by Circle D, has a number of unique features internally that help it to perform both on the street and at the track. One item Sehorn is specifically proud of is the the deep-groove ball-bearing that’s installed in the front cover. It’s there to center all of the parts and pieces internally. According to Sehorn, this is an extremely durable design that is unique within the industry that helps to contain the axial and radial loads within the converter. These features help to extend the life of the converter.
“We’re extremely proud of our triple-disc design. We make everything we can in-house. It’s a USA-forged front cover that starts out as a 60-pound block of steel that we CNC-machine into its final shape. The high-carbon clutches are also custom-made just for us, these hold up extremely well in the later-model transmissions. The clutches are also heat-treated to eliminate any wear issues over time. The apply piston is full billet that’s USA-forged and machined in house as well, and we use a custom turbine hub in these converters,” says Sehorn.
The converter also has industry standard items built-in like Torrington bearings for the turbine hub to spin upon, anti-balloon plates, and furnace brazed fins, along with TIG-welded parts where necessary.
Going Up, Up, Up
In a positive-displacement supercharged car like ours, getting the engine up into the powerband doesn’t take nearly as much effort as it might for an owner of a naturally aspirated car or centrifugal supercharged car, where the engine needs to get up into the RPM band in order to make power. The converter doesn’t need a stall speed quite so high, and ultimate power-handling is much more important in our case.
Left to Right - Removal of the transmission to replace the converter requires our Kooks X pipe and DriveShaft Shop one-piece aluminum driveshaft to come out, then we moved to the 6R80 transmission itself. The Power Automedia shop is fully equipped for this sort of job, and our techs made quick work of the process.
We see the factory converter start to give up around 500 horsepower – the lockup clutch starts slipping. – Chris Sehorn, Circle D Specialties
“We can alter the stall speed to match the torque curve, and in a positive displacement application like yours we have to be careful not to overshoot the torque curve by going too loose. Whereas with a centrifugal car, or an NA car, we want to go 4,000 to 4,500 rpm on the flash, so that when you pop out of the hole you’re just popping right into the powerband. A turbo car needs to be loose down low, so you can footbrake it and build some boost. Turbo cars are the hardest ones to do because there’s no power, and then twice the amount of power. Basically, the more power you put to the converter, the higher it’s going to stall,” Sehorn explains.
On the track, he says that users can see as much as a three-quarter-second improvement in elapsed times with a naturally-aspirated or centrifugally-supercharged car with the use of a new torque converter optimized for performance, while a positive-displacement supercharger owner will see a couple of tenths at least, depending upon what was in the car prior to installation.
Left - Once the transmission has been removed, you can see the wimpy stamped cover on the stock torque converter. Left Middle - Some quick cleanup, and our new converter is ready to be slid into place. Right Middle - Pour one quart of fluid into the converter prior to installation - you don't want it dry when the engine fires up. installing it onto the input shaft requires a couple of turns, and you'll hear three separate engagements as you do. Right - You must check the installed depth once the converter is on the input shaft to ensure it's properly seated.
Another advantage comes in terms of drivability – not on the street, but at the track. “From a competitive standpoint, if you can loosen up the converter up it’s a lot easier to stage the car and be consistent with the tree without having to fight the brakes so much, and that’s what we were after in this application,” Sehorn says.
Positive-displacement supercharged applications like Project Silver Bullet – as a function of design – produce all of their boost nearly off-idle. This can present issues when staging a car in a drag racing application as the car wants to push through the brakes due to the boost coming in as soon as the car loads up on the foot-brake. This problem is not prevalent in trans-brake racing applications, but we don’t ever plan on doing that with Project Silver Bullet.
On The Track Improvements
At the track, we saw a substantial improvement from our ROUSH-supercharged machine in some areas, while others clued us in to some issues to note. Previously, our best 60-foot time was a 1.54, and on both passes this day we were able to click off a 1.51 on less than ideal track conditions – and found out in the process of running the car through the quarter-mile that we need to put some more time in on the dyno and on the street to straighten out our transmission tuneup for the new torque converter.
We saw a substantial improvement on the bottom side of the elapsed time with a three hundredths decrease in the short-track, but didn’t see the improvement through the eighth due the fact that since this is a completely different converter than stock and realized we needed to adjust our transmission shift points accordingly.
Every time we go out to the track, we learn something new. This time out, we found out that our new converter does exactly what we expected it to, which is get us out of the hole more quickly and efficiently. Next time back to the track, we’ll have the transmission tuneup ironed out and expect to see a substantial elapsed time decrease in the process.
Although I focus great attention on how a transmission is built, installation and proper adjustment after the unit is installed are just as important to durability and longevity. To get longevity and durability, a transmission must be properly installed and adjusted, which means a methodical approach to getting a fresh transmission into service. Let’s begin the installation discussion with a few removal points; that’ll get you off to a good start.
Removal
Transmission removal is on par with transmission teardown (see Chapter 3) because it is a forensics study in why the transmission may have failed to begin with. Ask yourself, “How was the transmission installed?” “Was everything in proper adjustment?” How was the transmission functioning when it was time for removal?”
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Installation
Transmission installation requires great levels of care.
Torque Converter
Torque converter installation, although it sounds simple, is an easy step to mess up. It’s mostly about feel because you cannot see the components to ascertain fit. Not only must the converter slide onto the input shaft and pump stator, it must also fit squarely into the pump and engage the drive gear. If it doesn’t seat properly, you risk severe pump and torque converter damage before even getting started. Believe me, a lot of us have made this mistake—don’t you make it.
As you are seating the converter, rock it on the stator and feel for proper input shaft, pump, and stator engagement. Then do the hand-fit check. If your hand can fit between converter and bellhousing, it is not seated. Feel for a solid bottoming out and do the hand-fit check. Then rotate the torque converter and see how it feels. If there’s binding or noise (grinding), it is not properly seated. Again, perform that hand-fit check between converter and bellhousing.
If the transmission failed, removal is a part of learning how and why failure occurred. Sometimes failure isn’t due to transmission problems, but instead due to poor initial installation and adjustment.
This is an opportunity to check out a transmission’s condition before teardown. What leaks and why? Are the kickdown and shifter linkages properly adjusted? Does the throttle valve (vacuum modulator) function properly? What condition is the transmission mount in? Is there a transmission cooler? What about driveshaft and slip yoke? What color is the transmission fluid?
After the converter is seated, use a fabricated retaining device, even if it’s a simple piece of band iron, to keep it in place.
Cooling System
Before installation, check out your transmission’s support system. The cooler lines and cooler must be flushed thoroughly to remove any particulates caused by transmission damage. Tom’s Transmissions uses a system called Hot Flush HF345S, which pressure-flushes transmission coolers and lines with a quick-reversing hot-fluid action that slams fluid back and forth to dislodge any debris that can harm a fresh transmission. Particulates are trapped in super-fine filters that ensure damaging debris won’t harm your new transmission.
What shape are your transmission cooler lines in? I’ve seen so many cars with patchwork transmission cooler lines connected together in pieces— easy spots for destructive debris to accumulate. I strongly recommend against using hose between transmission and cooler. Hard-line your system from transmission to cooler, using a minimal amount of hose. Under ideal circumstances, you hardline 100 percent of your transmission’s cooler lines.
The Hot Flush system from Tom’s Transmissions is an outstanding transmission purification system (left). Using a hotflush, high-pressure surge system, it removes all impurities, which are trapped in a filter (right).
Linkages
Inspect manual shift and kickdown linkages for integrity and proper adjustment. Remember, transmission failure isn’t always due to internal problems; there can be external ones like improper kickdown and manual linkage adjustments. Improper manual linkage adjustment is an easy mistake to make because a lot happens between your hand and the manual shift valve down under, especially with a column shifter.
Circle D Converter Installation Kit
Manual shifter adjustment needs to be on target per your Ford Shop Manual. Whether it is a console or column shift, Ford gives you plenty of room to adjust. Your adjustment should be in the middle of Ford’s adjustment range.
Vacuum Modulator And while I am on the subject of adjustment, vacuum modulator and control pressure should be a part of all this. Using a pressure gauge and following Ford’s numbers, adjust the vacuum modulator. Most vacuum modulators are already properly adjusted. But you want to be sure with a new transmission. Never leave one to chance.
Also make sure you have a working vacuum modulator and a reliable vacuum source. An engine with a lumpy camshaft and 14 inches of vacuum isn’t going to deliver a reliable vacuum signal, which causes the transmission to shift erratically. So if you’re having transmission problems with a roughrunning high-performance engine, check your vacuum signal first before blaming the transmission.
InspectionPokemon gba hack rom download for android.
While your transmission is out, it is time to inspect things like your engine’s oil pan gasket and rear main seal for leaks. And if you’re going to take care of these items, now is the time to do it.
What about your starter? What is the starter drive’s condition? What about your flexplate? The ring gear should be free of damage and runout.
What about the block plate? Is it the right one for your application? While your driveshaft is removed, inspect the slip yoke for scoring and abnormal wear.
What about universal joints? This is the time to se rvice your driveshaft and make it serviceable.
Next is the transmission crossmember and mount. A fresh mount keeps things secure around the driveshaft’s centerline.
And finally, what about your speedometer cable and drive gear? This is the time to inspect and make sure you have the correct drive gear and make sure your speedometer cable is in top condition.
Flexplate Installation
Step-1: Inspect Flexplate
First inspect the flexplate, checking for runout and ring gear damage. If all is true to mark and there are no cracks around bolt holes, the flexplate may be reinstalled.
Step-2: Install Reinforcement Plate
Ford calls this the flywheel reinforcement plate (PN C2OZ- 6A366-A), which must be installed with the flexplate. And like the flexplate, it installs only one way.
Step-3: Check for Leakage (Critical Inspection)
While your transmission is out, check for rear main seal and oil pan leakage. Now is the time to correct any engine problems.
Step-4: Line Up Correctly
When you’re preparing flexplate for installation, get all of the holes lined up in both flexplate and reinforcing plate because they only install one way. Use a reference mark to ease installing the reinforcing plate, flexplate, and crankshaft.
Step-5: Use Thread Locker
Always use a high-temperature thread locker on crankshaft bolt threads to both secure and seal because these bolts thread directly into the crankcase.
Step-6: Torque Bolts
Torque bolts crisscross to 75 to 85 ft-lbs in thirds: first, to 28 ft-lbs, then to 56 ft-lbs, and finally to 75 to 85 ft-lbs. Don’t forget thread locker.
Step-7: Check Fitment
If you have fitment problems, check sizing and bolt-hole patterns. Torque converters are sometimes mislabeled or misboxed to where they’ve no chance of fitting your application. They either won’t fit the pilot or the transmission input shaft and stator. If a torque converter does not fit, do not force it.
Step-8: Use Correct Flexplate Size
Most common flexplate sizes for C4 transmissions are 157-tooth (left) and 164-tooth (right). Each calls for its own bellhousing size. There’s also a smaller 148-tooth flexplate (not shown here) for Mustang II and Capri.
Step-9: Install Block Plate
This is a one-size-fits-all adjustable block plate for small-block Fords, available from Mike’s Transmission. This block plate fits 157- and 164-tooth applications.
Step-10: Use Transmission Fluid
Service the torque converter with 1 or 2 quarts of transmission fluid prior to converter installation. This primes the pump and gets prompt lubrication to transmission internals on start-up. You don’t have to use Type F on old Ford transmissions anymore. Dexron III and Mercon IV are suitable fluids.
Step-11: Lubricate Pump Drive
Circle D 3200 Stall Converter
Converter pump drive should be lubricated with transmission lube prior to installation to prevent seal damage.
Circle D Converter Installation Pdf
Step-12: Install New Transmission Mount
Install a new transmission mount in order to minimize movement around the driveshaft’s centerline. Also check driveshaft, universal joints, and slip yoke condition.
Step-13: Adjust Shifter
Proper shifter adjustment is important to operation. Move the manual valve shift into Park; then, place shifter in Park. Secure linkage and tighten adjustment. Adjustment should fall in the middle (as shown).
Step-14: Inspect Speedometer Drive Gears
Speedometer drive gears on transmission and cable should both be inspected for abnormal wear or damage. Install a new O-ring while you’re at it and lubricate generously with transmission assembly lube.
Step-15: Check Drain Plug Location (Critical Inspection)
Torque converter drive stud and drain plug alignment are very important. Get this wrong and you wind up with a distorted flexplate. Make sure drain plug is located at the right hole and not up against the flexplate.
Step-16: Run Transmission Lines
Transmission cooler lines should be hard lines between cooler/radiator and transmission. Keep the number of joints minimal.
Step-17: Inspect & Adjust Kickdown Linkage (Critical Inspection)
Inspect and adjust the kickdown cable or linkage. Replace the neutral safety/ back-up light switch if necessary. Check for proper operation and continuity.
Step-18: Fill Fluid
Although vintage Ford automatics once called for Type-F fluid, they can get away with using Dexron III or Mercon IV these days. Type-F was more about friction enhancers than anything.
Step-19: Don’t Drain Torque Converter (Professional Mechanic Tip)
Down the road, when the time comes for transmission service, never completely drain your torque converter for two reasons. First, you want fluid in the converter to prime the pump and ensure lubrication on start-up; second, some transmission professionals never completely change fluid due to the risk of “shocking” seals.
Written by George Reid and Republished with Permission of CarTech Inc
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